Note to self, never choose to start a road trip at the height of rush hour in Auckland. Once we’d finally made it over the Harbour Bridge to just north of Wellsford, we were faced with a choice; turn right up the Eastern coast towards Whangerei, The Bay of Islands and Kerikeri or left along the road less travelled. This time we turned left.

Our ultimate destination was the small town of Omapere in the Hokianga Harbour which is about three and half hours north of Auckland on the west coast. Brynderwyn (surely there has to be some Welsh influence in there somewhere) is the point at which State Highway 12 breaks off from State Highway 1 turning sharply left towards the Kauri Coast. I wish that we’d allowed more time to meander up the coastal route. As with most roads in New Zealand, don’t be fooled by the title “State Highway.” More often than not, especially in more remote places, that means a single lane carriageway that can leap over railway lines or bend 90 degrees with limited warning.

About 30 minutes north of Dargaville we made our first stop at Kai Iwi Lakes. Tucked down a side road past farmland and bush, three freshwater, dune lakes suddenly come in to view and on a sunny day it’s like you’ve teleported to Tahiti. I went in for a paddle in very stylish fashion with my trousers rolled up to my knees. The shallows were warm whilst in the deeper waters, jet skis and boats whizzed about. Changing rooms and the camp site on Pine Beach mean you that could stay a little longer if you wanted, but just note that the water temperatures fluctuate wildly during the year. You really need a sunny day to see the lakes at their tropical best.

From there, another hour further north and you reach the Lord of the Forest, Tāne Mahuta. A giant kauri tree, Tāne Mahuta is estimated to be between 1250-2500 years old. Just off the road in a clearing, Tāne is accessed via a short boardwalk that keeps you off the forest floor and away from the sensitive roots of the Kauri trees. Feet are disinfected on the way in and out of the walk to prevent Kauri dieback, a microscopic fungal disease that has further decimated a Kauri population already endangered by logging. Standing near Tāne feels a little like being in a cathedral, a feeling of being dwarfed by something much older and much greater than yourself. Tāne has dedicated ambassadors from the local Te Roroa iwi who help visitors at the site.

Heading northwards, the road continues to weave through the Waipoua forest. Emerging into the sunlight after about twenty minutes and rounding a left hand bend, we got our first expansive view of the Hokianga Harbour and the towns of Omapere and Ōpononi. The entrance to the harbour is guarded on one side by the huge sand dune that you can see in the photo. We were lucky enough to have snagged a wee gem of an Air BnB in Omapere. With the windows open at night, we could hear the waves crashing up the beach and we barely moved anywhere other than the deck or the beach for three days with the exception of the local fish and chip shop and the town of Rawene.

Rawene is where you can catch the small car and passenger ferry over to the north shore of the harbour to avoid a long drive around. New Zealand’s third oldest European settlement, the town was established in the early 19th century as a ship-building centre and timber mill. It’s a small place, but perfectly formed, right next to the water with several good coffee spots AND a bookshop! No. 1 Parnell, not only has an art gallery, cafe and a resident cat who likes to snooze in the window, but it also has a great selection of second-hand books. It’s the perfect place to while away a holiday afternoon and I’ve been plotting to get back up there ever since!